Sanjukta Dutta, an accomplished fashion designer from Assam, has successfully brought the State’s rich cultural heritage to the global fashion stage. Born and raised in Nagaon district, Dutta’s journey from an engineer in the Assam Public Works Department (PWD) to a renowned designer is nothing short of inspiring.
Her passion for Assam’s traditional attire, particularly the mekhela chador, led her to leave behind a stable government career and pursue her dream of reviving Assam’s handloom industry. Today, she stands as a symbol of creativity and resilience, having made significant contributions to promoting Assamese silk and traditional wear on national and international platforms.
Dutta’s love for the mekhela chador began in her childhood, where she designed garments for her family and friends. The positive response she received to her creations ignited her desire to establish a weaving unit in Guwahati, and in 2012, she took the bold step to pursue her passion full-time. Within just eighteen months, her unique designs found a strong market, selling 3,000 units of her specially crafted mekhela chadors.
Her career reached new heights when she became the first Assamese woman to showcase her creations at Lakme Fashion Week, one of India’s most prestigious fashion events. Since then, Dutta has consistently brought Assam’s traditional attire to the forefront of global fashion.
In 2022, she made history by presenting her collection ‘Alphool’ at New York Fashion Week, marking one of her most significant accomplishments. Her work was also featured on the red carpets of Cannes, where she made a striking debut with a mulberry gown paired with a mekhela chador.
A highly regarded designer, Dutta has been recognized for her dedication and talent, receiving the Dada Saheb Phalke Excellence Award for ‘Best Fashion Designer’ in 2018. Her designs have captured the attention of the global fashion community, with her collections featured at Paris Fashion Week and worn by prominent figures, including the Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton.
In 2024, Dutta reached another milestone in her illustrious career by personally attending the 77th Cannes Film Festival, where her fusion of traditional Assamese silk and modern fashion was showcased to an international audience. Alongside supermodels Mirka Oktavia Hendro and Valeriya Hjertenaes, Dutta’s designs captivated global attention, cementing her status as one of the foremost advocates of Assam’s rich heritage in the global fashion industry.
Through her work, Dutta continues to bridge the gap between traditional and contemporary fashion, making Assamese silk a symbol of elegance and cultural pride worldwide.
In an exclusive interview with ND24, Dutta shared her journey from being a PWD engineer to becoming a renowned fashion designer:
Q. From being a PWD engineer to becoming a renowned fashion designer, what inspired you to make such a transformative career shift, and how did your journey in fashion begin?
A. Since childhood, I have had a passion for mekhela chador. I wanted to do something for the handloom industry because whenever I travelled outside Assam, I noticed that Kanjeevarams or Banarasi sarees were the most popular, unlike Assam’s silk sarees. This is what inspired me to choose this industry. I never thought of becoming a fashion designer; my aim was always to contribute to Assam’s handloom industry.
Q. How did your family react to your decision to leave your engineering career and enter the fashion industry? Was their support a big factor in your transition?
A. My family and friends were initially afraid of my decision to leave the job. Transitioning from a PWD engineer to the fashion industry was a big risk. They thought it would be difficult for me, especially since I had no formal knowledge of fashion design. But my biggest support was my husband. He told me, “Just listen to your heart. Whatever your heart and mind say, do that.” And that inspired me to leave my job after working as an assistant PWD engineer for 10 years.
Q. Many aspiring designers take formal courses in fashion design. Did you pursue any such courses, or did you learn through other means?
A. No, I did not take any formal education in fashion design. I believe there’s no age limit for learning. When your work becomes your passion, you learn automatically. I also believe people mostly learn from their failures, not their successes. To this day, I study late at night, often until 1 or 2 am, exploring new trends and designs. Learning truly has no age limit.
Q. Tell us about your experience at the 77th Cannes Film Festival. How did it feel to debut your creations on such a prestigious platform?
A. Attending the 77th Cannes Film Festival for the first time was incredible. I had the opportunity to walk on the red carpet. My creations were showcased there for the fourth time, as actresses from different parts of the world had worn my designs before. That was my debut, and it was a unique experience. I had always wanted to showcase Assam’s beautiful handloom industry on such a prestigious platform.
Q. What was the concept behind your outfits showcased at Cannes, and how did you ensure they reflected both glamour and your cultural roots?
A. Whenever I design something, the first thing that comes to mind is Assam and its beautiful motifs. Assam is home to various tribes, and each tribe has motifs that reflect the deep connection between its people and their environment. Each design carries significant cultural meaning based on the tribe and specific motif used.
Q. Your designs have been featured on global fashion platforms like Milan, Paris, and New York Fashion Weeks. Which of these international shows left the biggest impression on you?
A. All of my fashion weeks have been important to me because my goal was to make Assam’s silk popular internationally. When I showcased the mekhela chador at these shows, major magazines featured them, and that was one of my greatest achievements. After these shows, many publications like L’Officiel and Vogue Italia featured my designs, and after returning from New York Fashion Week, Cry Foundation organized an auction where 30 pieces of my mekhela chador were sold out.
Q. As a designer rooted in Assamese culture, what makes the mekhela chador so unique, and how is it different from other traditional Indian garments in terms of weaving?
A. Honestly, as someone from Assam, I love its culture, and being a woman, I’m particularly attracted to traditional outfits. In my opinion, wearing a mekhela chador looks more elegant and beautiful than any other outfit.
Q. What’s the response to mekhela chadors outside Assam? Do you see growing demand for them in other regions or internationally?
A. Yes, there is definitely growing demand for mekhela chadors outside Assam. It all started with Sohum Shoppe, where I began selling my garments. The owner was a good acquaintance of mine and admired my designs. On the first day, I sold 100 garments, and soon, I sold over 3,000 pieces in just a year and a half. That was a huge boost for me.
I realized that people in Assam already loved mekhela chadors, but my goal was to make them popular outside Assam. In 2015, I participated in Lakme Fashion Week for the first time and received great feedback. Since then, I’ve participated many times. Now-a-days, I send out 3 to 4 couriers a day, mostly to non-Assamese customers. So, I can confidently say that there is a lot of demand for mekhela chadors.
Q. You’ve dressed Bollywood stars like Priyanka Chopra, Malaika Arora, and Sonakshi Sinha, among others. Who stands out as your favourite celebrity to style, and why?
A. It’s difficult for me to choose one particular person, as all of them come from different backgrounds and have unique personalities. In my opinion, all of them are beautiful and special in their own way.
Q. What upcoming projects or collaborations are you most excited about?
A. For my upcoming project, I am currently in Delhi. This project is part of an initiative by PM Narendra Modi, and it will begin by next week. I believe that work never stops, and I will continue to keep working.
